Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Coming HOme

Dear Friends and Family

Your children are having their final Shabbat tonight in Jerusalem. They had an amazing time on this trip. I am sure you are so excited to see them at the airport on Monday. Once again I am attaching their flight information.

Please give a big hug and thank you to Sarah Warren and Brian Meeron when you see them at the airport. As chaperones of this trip, they were outstanding and extremely devoted to your children in all matters. They were passionate about their roles, and dedicated to preparing the students before leaving. While on the trip they made sure all were having the best possible experiences both in Poland and Israel. Most importantly they each performed their duties with a high level of responsibility. Sarah and Brian kept extremely late night hours to make sure any issues of the day were resolved, that students were in their rooms, and that all was as it should be in order to have the best possible trip. They both dealt with hospital runs, flea bites, emotional issues, eye infections, ear infections, and logistical issues.

Through the entire journey, they communicated thoroughly with me on an almost daily basis, keeping me well informed of all the details. In addition to this the staff of Israel Experience was equally diligent and responsible, providing the best possible experiences for your children.

Our community trip to Poland and Israel is unique and special as you will soon realize upon your child’s return. Students not only bond with one another, by meeting and making friends locally and often with those whom they never knew before; they also bond with Israeli teens from Netanya, our Partnership city. Most importantly however they come back with a new perspective about themselves and about their own Jewish identity.

I hope your son or daughter shares with each of you all the wonderful things that he or she did in Israel and the tragic things they witnessed in Poland.

We are so blessed to live in a community where the Jewish Foundation and the Jewish Federation support travel experiences to Israel for teens and college age students. Both organizations see this very generous gift of $6000 in high school and $4500 in college as an investment in the future, in Israel and in our own local Jewish community. Most importantly it is an investment in your child as a Jewish leader and as a person of character.

Please welcome your child with open arms on Monday as I know they will do the same to you.

Shabbat Shalom,
Barb

This Past Weekend...

Joanna Kaissar:
Yesterday we woke up at 3:00 a.m. and hiked up Masada, which wasn’t as hard as I expected, but it was very beautiful. When we got to the top we learned the story of Herod . It was very beautiful, we took lots of pictures. The hike down was actually a lot harder than the hike up. It was a lot harder. We finally got down and had lunch. We went to Ein Gedi and swam. We went to the Dead Sea which was really cool. When we got in it burned really bad. So we got out, put mud on ourselves and took pictures. It was fun. After that we went to this resort thing in the middle of the dessert and slept out there. That was incredible. We laid down and looked at the stars. It was actually a pretty good sleep. We had to cook our own meal. It was a fun amazing day.

Dan Makutonin:
Today we climbed Massada and it was really exciting. I’ve been to Israel twice and both times we climbed Massada. This time we went up the Roman ramp and that was a first for me and I really enjoyed it. Then we went to Ein Gedi and it was really hot but there was a waterfall and it was really refreshing, we had a long swim with the tour guide. After that we went to the Dead Sea. I’ve been there as well, and it was more fun because it was with my friends. We floated and then we swam in the pool. I really enjoyed the day. To top it all off we went camping and we made our own food and it all tasted really good.

Cody Selker:
Today we woke up in the middle of the dessert and we’re all very tired. Then we had a relaxed day camping and then we went shopping which was pretty fun but it’s so hot here it’s hard to stand the heat. We had Shabbat dinner which was good. Now it’s free time and it’s really boring. We’re all talking and ready to sleep in tomorrow. It’s been a pretty relaxed day and we’ve all been enjoying it.

Rachel Barr:
This morning woke up in the dessert and it was really peaceful. It was nice to be able to sleep outside under the stars. When we woke up this morning we had a gorgeous view of the entire dessert and a beautiful clear, blue sky. We had breakfast at camp. We packed up everything and left the dessert just as we had seen it before we came. We then drove to the Ramon crater where we had the opportunity to repel about 35 feet down into the crater. It was really an incredible experience. It challenged a lot of us. Almost everyone was able to do it. After that we drove to Eilat -- we had a little break for lunch but then continued to drive. We had some time to rest at the hotel before we had free time in the market. It was REALLY hot here today so many of us spent some time in the air conditioned mall. And then we had more time at the hotel before Shabbat. We had a nice Shabbat dinner and now we’re just having rest time. Many of us are going to sleep early.

Justin Kirschner:
Today was pretty uneventful. It’s really hot out. We woke up in the dessert which was nice, I hadn’t done that before. Then we went repelling which I’ve done before. It was fun but it was short. Then we drove to Eilat and it is so hot here. The pier is really nice and the Red Sea is beautiful. I’m excited for Saturday where we have a disco ball.

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Updates from Israel - Tuesday, July 15

Ronald Rubin:
We started off our day in Israel at an archeological dig. We were digging in four different sections. I was in a cave known as Aphrodite and I found charcoal and pieces of pottery. Towards the end I found an intact, black oil lamp. It was the biggest find of the whole day. The lady who was leading the dig said she thinks it will put in a museum after they do some research on it. That was really interesting. We explored some excavated and non-excavated caves and that was really fun. After that we went to a pool and had lunch. It was nice to have some relaxing free time, no salt water. Then we drove down south for a few hours to the Bedouin tents. We went on camel rides which were really fun. Then we went back to a tent and had some tea and crackers and learned a little bit about the Bedouin culture. We had a nice dinner. We ate with our hands. Then we had a bonfire, ate some s’mores and sang some songs. Overall it was a really fun and relaxing day.

Eva Westheimer:
Over Shabbat I stayed with a Shomer Shabbos family and it was a really good experience for me because I don’t practice Judaism a lot in the States. We went to Shul and everything was in Hebrew, but it was fun. On Saturday, we didn’t turn on the lights and we said the Kiddush on Friday night. There was no driving on Saturday and we just walked around. My host sister showed me her town with some of her friends which was really nice because they were born in the States so they spoke English. Overall my Shomer Shabbos was a good experience. I can say that I don’t think I would want to be a Shomer Shabbos family, but it was a good experience.

Sunday night we went into Jerusalem and saw a traditional folk dance festival. That was really nice because it reminded me a lot of dance festivals back at home. It was teenagers about our age and they had a lot of upper body strength so I admired that. It was a very tiring day because we spent about an hour at the beach so the sun made us all tired. I want to say hello to my family.

Adam Birkan:
In Tel Aviv right now in a so-called hostel, I’m pretty sure it’s a hotel – it’s nice. It’s pretty hot outside. Give a shout out to the parents and anyone else who views this. I came up with this great idea. If you’re ever in a hot place where the air conditioning doesn’t work and you have a refrigerator, take your blanket and leave it in there for an hour. Take it out of the refrigerator and then you have a cold blanket. I’m a genius, I know.

Alex Kraus:
We woke up at 7:30, which was like sleeping in. We drove to Jaffa and did some community service to help the people that can’t afford their food. We packaged boxes of food. We saw the summer camp that they have and we played soccer with the kids. After that we went to this bullet museum, where they made bullets for the War for Independence underneath this kibbutz. Then we went swimming in the Mediterranean for a couple of hours. It was really nice except we got stung a bunch of times by jellyfish. We drove back and had dinner. Then we had free time in the square in Tel Aviv.

Brianna Pecsok:
Sunday and Monday have been really fun, relaxing days. We began Sunday by ending our weekend with our host families which was so much fun. Then we went to Tel Aviv and went to the beach and to this museum that was really cool and we shopped around. Monday we went to the beach again and it was really fun because the waves were really big, but the jellyfish were really bad. We went to another cool museum and shopped around more in Tel Aviv. The past few days have been a lot of fun and I’ve had a really good time.

Annie Brant:
We are chillin’ out in the Bedouin tent right now. We’re in the middle of the Negev Dessert and its totally different the North of Israel. We had an awesome bonfire and an awesome dinner.

Bogdan Leshchinsky:
Today was a pretty good day. We went spelunking in caves and we looked for fossils and then went camel riding in the desert. Right now we are gonna sleep in the camp which is pretty cool. Just having lots of fun right now.

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Israel Update from Simi Barr

Simi Barr:
“We had a lot of fun today. We first went to a seminar on co-existence—Jews and Arabs-- and we got to talk to Israeli Arab teens. This was really cool because we saw how much they are like us. We then went to a Druze home and learned about the Druze religion and had home hospitality and lunch. We went to Akko and saw the prison used by the British. In Akko we had free time in the open market. It was really cool and I am having a fun time on the trip.”

For more information about Akko visit: http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/vie/Acco.html

For more information about the Druze visit: http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/Society_&_Culture/druze.html

Monday, July 7, 2008

Updates from Israel

Ronald Rubin:
“Yesterday was our last day in Poland. We had a tour of Lodz. We saw a lot of memorials and some of them were dedicated to children and we learned how children lost their innocence and how unfair it was for children. We received letters from our parents and it was really nice because we were definitely thinking about them. We saw cattle cars and it was interesting to see how real everything was and it was also suffocating to think that hundreds of people were in one car.”

Josh Levine:

“Right now we are in Tiberias in the hostel. We are in the northern part of Israel. It is only the first day in Israel but we are having a lot of fun so far. We had a great dinner and breakfast. Happy Birthday to my dad! I know it is a little late but I cannot control that.”

Ali Krause:

“We started off yesterday morning in Lodz. We were in the cattle car at the Lodz Memorial and held a ceremony in the Lodz Cemetery where we sang Hatikvah. We had dinner and f arewell ceremony in Warsaw. I am really tired because we got up so early but I am also so glad to be in Israel!”

Joanna Kaissar:
“Today we arrived in Israel. WE WERE VERY TIRED! We went to the top of a wishing well in Jaffa and danced. After that we went to the Independence Hall and watched the history of how Israel became an official country. After that we had lunch and finally went back to the hostel and got to rest which was good because we were extremely exhausted. We then walked around the Market Place in Tiberias for about 45 minutes and I bought some stuff. I really enjoyed the market place. We then came back to the hostel and played an ice breaker game. I am really happy to be in Israel!”

Daniel Makutonin:
“I had a great day today. We met out tour guide Chuck. He is a great guy and very funny. Dinner was the best we had all week I really enjoyed our day in Israel even though we were all tired and I am really looking forward to the rest of the trip.”

Sarah Schneider:

“We landed in Israel today. We were pretty tired from the flight but we went to look out at the water and performed a shehechyanu ceremony. We read about what it was like for us to come to Israel by sharing our own thoughts and we did Israeli dancing. We visited Independence Hall and learned about how Israel became a state. This was interesting! We later came to Tiberias. It is really, really beautiful here by the water of Tiberias (the Knerret) and I love the Palm Trees. We had good Israeli food and it is so nice to finally be here in Israel. I am looking forward to spending time here.”

They are in Israel!!

Dear Friends and Family:

The group arrived in Israel at 4 a.m. today! They went straight from the airport to Old Jaffa. Yuliya, Josh Levine, Josh Katz, Simi Barr, Sarah Sterner and Lauren Marmer prepared a few words about how they felt about being in Israel after Poland. Following their presentation they lit six torches to represent the six decades of Israel’s existence and the six million Jews who were lost in the Holocaust. This ceremony occurred as the sun rose over Tel Aviv. Together they learned Israeli dancing and danced to Eretz, Eretz, Eretz taught by their Israeli tour guide, Hadas. They tasted the sweet foods of the land of Milk and Honey and ate the seven species of Israel (dates, figs, olives, grapes, wheat and pomegranates). Following this they went to breakfast and enjoyed e bit of free time at the Tel Aviv beach.

At Independence Hall they learned about the declaration of the State of Israel hearing the recording of Ben Gurion’s announcement just as it occurred in 1948, and witnessing the miracle of Israel just three years after the war ended. They then had lunch together in Tel Aviv, drove to the north, and now are in Tiberias. Tonight they will get a good night’s rest to begin their day hikes in the beautiful northern part of Israel.

To learn more about Old Jaffa and Tel Aviv visit:

http://www.tel-aviv.gov.il/English/Tourism/Sites/Jaffa.htm

To learn more about Tiberias visit:

http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/vie/Tiberias.html

Thanks,
Barb

More reflections on Poland

The following voice messages were left on my cell phone over the weekend. Hop you all had a great weekend. The group should be landing in Israel today! Will keep you informed.
Barb

Sarah Sterner:
Calling from Krakow, Poland and having a really amazing time! Even though it has only been a couple of days it already feels like we have been together for a couple of weeks. Everyone is just really nice and open minded and I can tell we will have an amazing time together in Israel. We went to Auschwitz today which I cannot even explain. I was initially prepared to be emotional because it is such a big place; up until now it has been difficult for me to connect with the camps—Majdanek or Treblinka. But I knew my great grandfather’s family perished in Auschwitz. It is really hard for me now to describe my emotions. I have lots of questions about everything. The more I learn about the Holocaust the more questions I have. The best part of this is that I feel closer to those who perished in the Holocaust I feel closer to. I realize that these are my families, my heritage. I have made a tremendous connection to the past. Hopefully this will continue to grow in my mind as I continue to absorb all of this and think about it for a while. The next time I talk to you I will be in Israel.”

Annie Brant:
“Now we are in Lodz. We started in Warsaw and met with Polish University students and learned about their lives. We saw a presentation on this woman who housed Jews during the Holocaust. We discussed the dilemma of saving a stranger over your own family—should we put them at risk—that is a difficult challenge. We visited the Krakow Ghetto. It was interesting to learn that by keeping Jews in the ghetto intimidated the Polish people. We went to a shopping mall and then drove to Lodz, a very old city which we will see more of tomorrow.”

Eva Westheimer:
“We heard a woman talk about saving 11 Jewish people during the war. She was a righteous gentile and it was very moving. Hi to my sister who is coming home today?”

Lev Mitrofanov:
"Everything is cool!"

Adam Birkan:
"We are at a cool hotel—very retro and even has wifi!"

Paula Savchenko:
“Thank you for helping to make this trip possible. I am really having a good time. I still can’t get a grasp on everything we are seeing. You learn about it in school but you never really understand what is really happening. Still can’t understand but somehow have a better grasp on it. It makes me speechless on how amazing it is to be here and actually experience all of this. Thank you for making this happen again as I really appreciate it. “

For more information about Lodz visit:
http://www.ushmm.org/wlc/article.php?lang=en&ModuleId=10005071

More Information About Warsaw

The students will visit several cities seeing remnants of the Ghetto of: Warsaw, Krakow, Lublin and Lodz. During their visit to Warsaw they learned about not only life in the ghetto but the uprising of the Warsaw Ghetto. Here is additional information about the Warsaw Ghetto, the uprising and Jewish resistance.

When I hear from the kids, I will send you their direct quotes, too.
Thanks,
arb

********************

In September of 1939 Poland’s total population was about 33 million. Ten percent were Jews. Jews had lived and thrived in Poland for hundreds of years. Nazi Germany’s Blitzkrieg and the partition of Poland brought two million Jews under German rule. For Hitler, this “Jewish Problem” was one of enormous proportions. According to Nazi racial ideology, Poles were much inferior to Germans. Eastern European Jewry—Polish Jews among them—ranked even lower. Nazis referred to the Jews as sub-humans. Polish Jews therefore were given even less respect than the German Jews had received. Although the development of the Nuremberg Laws in Germany was a gradual process, allowing some German Jews the opportunity to leave; in Poland it was quite different. Things happened almost overnight.

The Nazis established their first ghetto on October 8, 1939. It stood in the Lodz district of Occupied Poland. A year later 500,000 Jews in Warsaw, Poland, struggled to survive in constantly deteriorating ghetto conditions. Severe hunger, overcrowding, disease and despair caused the Warsaw ghetto and other ghettos like it in cities such as Lodz and Lublin (Poland) Lvov and Minsk (Soviet Union), Kovno and Vilna (Lithuania) and Riga (Latvia) to become places of horrible suffering and death.

The Warsaw Ghetto was the largest of the ghettos organized by the Nazis in Poland. A tiny section of the city, an area of 3.5 square miles, imprisoned half a million Jews. It covered almost 2 percent of the city’s area but contained 30 percent of its population. With the fall of Poland the Nazis forced Jews to wear identifying armbands, confiscated their properties, and forced them into hard labor. They concentrated Warsaw’s Jews in the northern part of the city, the most heavily Jewish populated district. Each building in the ghetto housed an average of 400 people; rooms held an average of six to seven people. Many took refuge in courtyards, under stairways, or in cellars of bombed out houses.

The walls of the Warsaw Ghetto were sealed on November 16, 1940; and from that time until the final liquidation, the traffic to and from the ghetto was tightly regulated. The barbed wire and wooden fences originally erected gave way to an 11 foot high brick wall topped with broken glass. At first the ghetto had 22 gates and openings in the wall. By April 1941 only 13 remained, all of which were guarded by police: German, Polish and Jewish. Today all that remains is one small portion of the wall and a few old tenements which your children viewed.

The Nazis provided only minimal food supplies, rationing them in exchange for the output of forced labor and products that were produced by the ghetto craftsmen. The food allocations equaled 200 calories per person. The Nazis permitted no fresh fruits, vegetables, meat, fish or milk. Safe drinking water was scarce. Food allocations were distributed through the Judenrat, the Jewish council appointed by the Nazis. The Council was responsible for housing assignments, meeting roundup quotas, and other “choiceless choices” that were forced upon the Jews by the Nazis. Some people were part of this Council because they thought it would save themselves and their families; others thought they could be kinder to the Jewish residents than the Nazis. Either way, they often were despised by the residents of the ghetto and in the end they met their deaths as well.

During the winter, when sewage pipes froze, human excrement was dumped in the streets. Many ghetto residents died on a daily basis. Old people and children simply lied down in the streets and died. About 500,000 residents of Warsaw lost their lives during the Nazi occupation.

Jewish children were a particular affront to the Nazis as they were the “future of the Jewish race.” Furthermore they were useless because few of them could work. Therefore they usually were the first among the victims of Nazi pogroms. Children of the ghetto were particularly vulnerable to the harsh treatment of the Nazis. Without proper food, shelter and clothing, childhood death rates were extremely high. In addition with schools closed and parents dieing, the traditional family structures were shattered, and children of the ghettos were deprived of education and their innocence. Many of the children of the ghettos became the “smugglers”. Because of their small size, they were able to squeeze through cracks and holes in the walls, meet up with the underground through the sewer system, and bring back food, weapons, and other items needed to survive within the ghetto walls. There is an actual sewer or manhole in the middle of the Warsaw Cemetery where many of these children of the Warsaw Ghetto ended up escaping to in order to meet up with the underground and receive goods to smuggle back into the ghetto.


During 1942 and 1943, the Nazis “liquidated” the ghettos by deporting and murdering their inhabitants. Those in Warsaw were sent mostly to Treblinka. Round ups became a daily occurrence in the ghettos.

The tragic history of the Warsaw Jewish community can be heard in the word, Umschlagplatz (transfer point). During the deportations that began in July 1942; an average of 7,000 Jews per day were forcibly marched to the Umschlagplatz, a way station to the Treblinka extermination camp. German police, the SS and their Latvian and Ukrainian helpers would search the streets of Warsaw, rounding up Jews to send to this way station. Jews of Warsaw knew that it was imperative to their survival to avoid this holding place of death. (See the film The Pianist)

Today there is a small memorial to the Umschlagplatz. Your children went there and saw what basically looks like a box car structure made of marble, with the first names of ghetto residents inscribed on it. In the middle of this structure is a small opening with a tree in eye view. Students are asked to reflect on this memorial. Some will find their own names inscribed on the wall; others will find their Hebrew Names. The horrible circumstances of the ghetto, coupled with the appalling conditions on the trains, caused many of those who began the journey of death to die here at this point and even before they reached their final destination. And of course, those who survived the trains or the conditions of the ghetto or the brutality of the Nazi guards were ultimately murdered in the gas chambers of Treblinka.



One cannot leave the city of Warsaw without remembering the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising. In the summer of 1942 the Nazis removed 300,000 Jews from the Warsaw Ghetto. Most went to Treblinka. Approximately 700 to 750 Jewish men and women armed themselves as best they could. They were determined to resist the roundups and the Nazis who were intent on destroying the nearly 60,000 Jews who remained in the ghetto in the early spring of 1943. On April 19, the eve of Passover, the Germans entered the ghetto to liquidate it for good. They met up with the first “urban uprising” in German-occupied Europe. It lasted from April 19 to May 16, 1943. Although the poorly armed Jewish fighters were outnumbered 3 to 1 by Nazis who had tanks and cannons, it was not until May 8 that the Germans destroyed the Jewish Fighting Organization’s headquarters bunker at 18 Mila Street, where Mordecai Anielewicz, the organization’s commander, died.

Although on May 16 General Stroop declared victory over the Warsaw Ghetto, and although only 16 Germans were killed and 85 were wounded, the Warsaw Ghetto uprising remains highly important as another example of heroic Jewish resistance against ENORMOUS ODDS. Furthermore it prompted Poles to revolt and others in other places to do the same.

The Rapoport Memorial of the Warsaw Ghetto can be seen both in Warsaw and at Yad Vashem in Jerusalem. It stands as tall as the rubble of the Warsaw Ghetto did in the year 1948 -- piled 16 feet high covering hundreds of acres. When your children come home, ask them what they remember about this memorial and what was different about the memorial as seen in Poland versus the one at Yad Vashem in Israel. Both are a memorial to the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising.

Today's Quotes about the Student's Visit to Majdanek

Cody Selker:
“Today we went to the concentration camp and I have to say it was the hardest day we have had so far. Everything was so unbelievable. We went and saw the barracks where everyone slept so close together and packed together; and we saw the showers and the ovens—or fireplaces where they were put into and burnt. It was just horrible. The one thing that got me the most was seeing all the shoes of everyone in the Holocaust, and that wasn’t everyone—it was unbelievable. It gave me a real visual of just how massive it was. I have read books but this gave me a much more realistic vision of what really happened. It was so hard to imagine all the people who were killed here; just because I did not want to imagine all of them being murdered. Later we saw a humongous pile of ashes and the bones inside of it were still there. It was horrible to think that that many people could be killed in one small place.”

Josh Katz:
"I want to thank you for letting me come on this tremendous trip because today really let me realize just what the holocaust is all about. Thank you! Bye!”

Chad Miller:
“I just wanted to say this trip has really been surprising given the emotions I have felt in the camps and the ghetto. It is so hard to imagine how these horrible things could happen. But I have been feeling really more angry than sad that this could have ever happened—I don’t try to control my emotions; I let myself feel what I feel. I just want to say hi to my family. I hope all is well as things are going well here. Tomorrow we go to Auschwitz and I think that is something that really will be life-changing and I really look forward to going to Israel

Rachel Barr:
“Today we visited Majdanek. I was really shocked having seen concentration camps before. We saw the gas chambers and a barrack that was filled with piles and piles of shoes and I cannot imagine how one human being could do this to another human being and how someone could even build a gas chamber specifically to kill others. How could Nazis believe that shoes, clothes, and the hair of people were more important than the people themselves? It was really weird to be walking around a place where so many people had been murdered.

When we saw the ashes of the victims there was a bouquet of flowers that had also turned to ash and there were even bones. I could not imagine just how many people had been turned to ash—and for what.?

Finally I was really surprised with how close the town was to the camp. The people (of the town) had to know what was going on in the camp and yet they did absolutely nothing. The entire city of Lublin had to know what was going on in this camp.”


Sarah Warren said the group had lots of deep discussions tonight so that they could process what they saw. She said everyone is doing great and they are a very bright and sensitive group of students.

All the best,
Barb

July 3, 2008: Auschwitz-Birkenau and the Old City of Krakow

Today the group toured Auschwitz-Birkenau. Here are comments from Justin Kirschner and Briana Pecsok.

Justin Kirschner:
“Today we went to Birkenau and Auschwitz. The words I can tell you to explain my experience there was just WOW! To see it in the movies is one thing but to see it in real life is definitely another; and be here it totally different. I got a first hand experience of what Jews went through. Auschwitz was different than what I expected it to be. I am really glad I came on this trip just for that. Thank you! Bye!”

Briana Pecsok:
"Today we experienced a lot of things on a very wide spectrum. We went from Birkenau to Auschwitz and it evoked a lot of questions and was really emotional. It was a good day. It is hard to put into words the things we saw and what went on there. What we did see was horrible. We went to the Old Town of Krakow which was really cool because we went from something so dark to something so lively."

Below is a description of Auschwitz which they visited today and also nearby Krakow which they will visit this weekend.

Auschwitz


Auschwitz was divided into three camps. Each camp housed thousands of prisoners and each camp had a different function.

Auschwitz I remained a concentration camp, housing political prisoners and “criminals” as defined by the Germans.

Auschwitz II or Birkenau was built between the end of 1941 and the middle of 1942 and became the death camp.

Auschwitz III—Monowitz, where slave laborers were constructing what was to be the largest synthetic rubber factory in the world, was the I. G. Farben Buna plant. (I.G Farben was the largest chemical-industrial conglomerate in the world. Buna was the name given to the synthetic rubber that was produced to make Germany self-sufficient in the war.) For those of you who know Werner Coppel, local holocaust survivor, he spent most of his time in Buna.

Auschwitz also included some small labor camps within a 50-mile radius.

Trains arrived regularly at Auschwitz-Birkenau carrying box cars crammed with Jews from all over Europe. The Jews were driven off the trains onto a long railroad platform and forced to line up and move toward the end of the platform where several SS men, directed by doctors (most notorious was Dr. Mengele) would determine who would work and who would die. At the selection process with a flick of the thumb, people were sentenced to death. The “Non-Productive” category automatically included children under the age of 16 and adults over age 40, also the handicapped, mentally deficient, those already sick from starvation, mothers with small children, etc.

Those who survived selection were forced to do slave labor at Auschwitz III—Monowitz, or at one of the smaller labor camps. Some were selected for the Sonderkommando jobs and were forced to clear gas chambers of dead bodies and carry them to the crematoria to be burned. Most of these men were killed after 3 months and were replaced by new prisoners. Other prisoners were given jobs in the camps such as carpenters, latrine duty, and kitchen duty. Even physicians were utilized for a certain amount of time within the hospital of Auschwitz. All prisoners were underfed and lived under miserable conditions. Food was so scarce that often this led to savage behavior—survival by any means. Only the prisoners of Auschwitz were tattooed with numbers on their arms. Upon arrival their bodies were shaved and they could only keep their shoes and their belt.

At Auschwitz-Birkenau there were 4 enormous gas chambers used to murder 15,000 people daily. By the end of 1944 more than 2.5 million Jews had died of disease or starvation, or had been worked to death, gassed, shot, hung, injected with lethal drugs or experimented upon. More than 250,000 Gypsies also were killed there. Jews and Gypsies were to be exterminated simply because they existed.

Today Auschwitz-Birkenau has been sanitized. Auschwitz I is a museum. Today the group will visit various buildings containing suitcases, children’s toys, hairbrushes, shoes, prosthetics, etc. They will see the Execution Block and the hospital. They will stand beneath the infamous sign, Arbeit Macht Frei. When you look at the sign, the B is actually inverted. The prisoners did this on purpose as a statement of resistance. One who visits Auschwitz cannot help but be struck by the fact that this “museum” actually has a gift shop and even a place to eat a picnic lunch. It is an uncomfortable feeling to say the least and no longer looks as it actually did during the war.

Birkenau, which the group toured yesterday, also has been sanitized. However, one still can recognize that this was a horrific place, an enormous camp, a factory designed to kill people. The well known gateway above the train tracks has become the symbol of one of the most evil places on earth.

Krakow

Krakow located in southern Poland was at one time the capital of Poland. There is record of a Jewish community of Krakow dating back to the 10th Century. The city fell to the Nazis on September 4, 1939 and became headquarters of the “General Government” which encompassed most of Poland. It was liberated by the Soviets on January 9, 1945.

The Jewish community in Krakow was one of the oldest in Eastern Europe. The Jewish population in 1939 was 56, 515. Krakow was a religious and cultural center for Jews. The first Jewish publishing house in Poland was in Krakow. Towards the end of the 19th Century Krakow became a center for Zionism. After World War I there was a daily Zionist newspaper. Many of the international Zionist Conferences took place in Krakow and all the Zionist youth movements were strong in Krakow and sent many olim to Israel.

With the Nazis, the Jews were moved to a ghetto on the other side of the Wisla River in Krakow. In Plashow, a special work camp was set up
(Schindler’s List). Most of the Jews of the Krakow Ghetto were sent to death camps including Auschwitz which is 45 kilometers from Krakow.

Today there are a few synagogues remaining in Krakow: The Mizrachi, the Kupa, The High Shul, the Isaac Shul, the Alte Shul, and the Rama Shul. Located next to the Rama Shul is the Rama cemetery. According to Catholic-related laws, no synagogue built in Poland could be built higher than any church. Consequently often many of the synagogues’ main floors were below ground level so that the height of the synagogue would not offend the Poles.

The pharmacy, which students will tour today, was in business from 1941 to 1943 within the walls of the Krakow Ghetto. Despite the fact that its owner was not Jewish, he maintained the business in the Ghetto. The pharmacy served as a “diplomatic agency” representing the free world in the walled ghetto. The pharmacy and the pharmacist had a cameo part in Schindler’s list. Today it is a museum to the Krakow Ghetto.

The Plashow camp was originally a forced labor camp and later became a concentration camp. It was established in 1942 in a Krakow suburb. The construction of the camp began in the summer of 1942 within the Krakow city limits. It was actually built on a site containing two Jewish cemeteries, other Jewish community property and the private property of Polish residents who had been evicted. Its maximum size was 200 acres. It was surrounded by an electric barbed wire fence 2.5 miles in length. The camp was divided into several sections: The German quarters, the factories, and the camp itself, which was separated into the men’s and women’s sections, with subsections for Poles and Jews.

Amon Goeth, the camp commandant from February 1943 to September 1944 (one of five men to hold this post), was the person responsible for most of the horrific crimes committed in the camp—mass murder, selection, death from over work, and personal participation in murder. (Schindler’s List). While still functioning as a forced labor camp, Plashow was the scene of mass killings of Jews. Some eight thousand persons are estimated to have been murdered in Plashow.

In September 1944 efforts were made to obliterate any traces of the crimes that had been perpetrated in the camp by opening the mass graves and burning the remains in heaps.

A huge monument was dedicated in September of 1964 to all the people who died there and reads, “In commemoration of those murdered by the Nazi perpetrators of genocide in the years 1943-1945.

On a smaller nearby monument built by the Jews of Krakow is the following:

“Here, in this area, have been tortured, murdered, and turned into ashes several tens of thousands of Jews in the years 1943-1945, driven here from all over Poland and Hungary. We do not know the names of the murdered. Let us replace them with one word only—Jews. Here at this site has been committed one of the most horrible crimes. Human language has no words to define the atrocity of this crime--its nightmarish bestiality, ruthlessness and cruelty. Let us replace it with one word—Nazism. In commemoration of those murdered here, whose last cry of despair is the silence of this Plashow cemetery, we Jews saved from the fascist pogrom pay homage.”

One cannot help but notice how many Poles today use this vast area as a park. It is hard to understand how people can stroll through this area, pushing babies, eating picnic lunches, riding on bicycles, and enjoying the grounds.

I probably will not be sending you emails until Monday, July 7th as we are closed for the holiday weekend.


I wish all of you a very Happy Fourth of July!

Barb

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Today's Visit to Majdanek

Rachel Barr:
“Today we visited Majdanek. I was really shocked having seen concentration camps before. We saw the gas chambers and a barrack that was filled with piles and piles of shoes and I cannot imagine how one human being could do this to another human being and how someone could even build a gas chamber specifically to kill others. How could Nazis believe that shoes, clothes, and the hair of people were more important than the people themselves? It was really weird to be walking around a place where so many people had been murdered.

When we saw the ashes of the victims there was a bouquet of flowers that had also turned to ash and there were even bones. I could not imagine just how many people had been turned to ash—and for what.?

Finally I was really surprised with how close the town was to the camp. The people (of the town) had to know what was going on in the camp and yet they did absolutely nothing. The entire city of Lublin had to know what was going on in this camp.”

Sarah Warren said the group had lots of deep discussions tonight so that they could process what they saw. She said everyone is doing great and they are a very bright and sensitive group of students.


More Information About Warsaw

The students will visit several cities seeing remnants of the Ghetto of: Warsaw, Krakow, Lublin and Lodz. During their visit to Warsaw they learned about not only life in the ghetto but the uprising of the Warsaw Ghetto. Here is additional information about the Warsaw Ghetto, the uprising and Jewish resistance.

When I hear from the kids, I will send you their direct quotes, too.
Thanks
Barb


In September of 1939 Poland’s total population was about 33 million. Ten percent were Jews. Jews had lived and thrived in Poland for hundreds of years. Nazi Germany’s Blitzkrieg and the partition of Poland brought two million Jews under German rule. For Hitler, this “Jewish Problem” was one of enormous proportions. According to Nazi racial ideology, Poles were much inferior to Germans. Eastern European Jewry—Polish Jews among them—ranked even lower. Nazis referred to the Jews as sub-humans. Polish Jews therefore were given even less respect than the German Jews had received. Although the development of the Nuremberg Laws in Germany was a gradual process, allowing some German Jews the opportunity to leave; in Poland it was quite different. Things happened almost overnight.

The Nazis established their first ghetto on October 8, 1939. It stood in the Lodz district of Occupied Poland. A year later 500,000 Jews in Warsaw, Poland, struggled to survive in constantly deteriorating ghetto conditions. Severe hunger, overcrowding, disease and despair caused the Warsaw ghetto and other ghettos like it in cities such as Lodz and Lublin (Poland) Lvov and Minsk (Soviet Union), Kovno and Vilna (Lithuania) and Riga (Latvia) to become places of horrible suffering and death.

The Warsaw Ghetto was the largest of the ghettos organized by the Nazis in Poland. A tiny section of the city, an area of 3.5 square miles, imprisoned half a million Jews. It covered almost 2 percent of the city’s area but contained 30 percent of its population. With the fall of Poland the Nazis forced Jews to wear identifying armbands, confiscated their properties, and forced them into hard labor. They concentrated Warsaw’s Jews in the northern part of the city, the most heavily Jewish populated district. Each building in the ghetto housed an average of 400 people; rooms held an average of six to seven people. Many took refuge in courtyards, under stairways, or in cellars of bombed out houses.

The walls of the Warsaw Ghetto were sealed on November 16, 1940; and from that time until the final liquidation, the traffic to and from the ghetto was tightly regulated. The barbed wire and wooden fences originally erected gave way to an 11 foot high brick wall topped with broken glass. At first the ghetto had 22 gates and openings in the wall. By April 1941 only 13 remained, all of which were guarded by police: German, Polish and Jewish. Today all that remains is one small portion of the wall and a few old tenements which your children viewed.

The Nazis provided only minimal food supplies, rationing them in exchange for the output of forced labor and products that were produced by the ghetto craftsmen. The food allocations equaled 200 calories per person. The Nazis permitted no fresh fruits, vegetables, meat, fish or milk. Safe drinking water was scarce. Food allocations were distributed through the Judenrat, the Jewish council appointed by the Nazis. The Council was responsible for housing assignments, meeting roundup quotas, and other “choiceless choices” that were forced upon the Jews by the Nazis. Some people were part of this Council because they thought it would save themselves and their families; others thought they could be kinder to the Jewish residents than the Nazis. Either way, they often were despised by the residents of the ghetto and in the end they met their deaths as well.

During the winter, when sewage pipes froze, human excrement was dumped in the streets. Many ghetto residents died on a daily basis. Old people and children simply lied down in the streets and died. About 500,000 residents of Warsaw lost their lives during the Nazi occupation.

Jewish children were a particular affront to the Nazis as they were the “future of the Jewish race.” Furthermore they were useless because few of them could work. Therefore they usually were the first among the victims of Nazi pogroms. Children of the ghetto were particularly vulnerable to the harsh treatment of the Nazis. Without proper food, shelter and clothing, childhood death rates were extremely high. In addition with schools closed and parents dieing, the traditional family structures were shattered, and children of the ghettos were deprived of education and their innocence. Many of the children of the ghettos became the “smugglers”. Because of their small size, they were able to squeeze through cracks and holes in the walls, meet up with the underground through the sewer system, and bring back food, weapons, and other items needed to survive within the ghetto walls. There is an actual sewer or manhole in the middle of the Warsaw Cemetery where many of these children of the Warsaw Ghetto ended up escaping to in order to meet up with the underground and receive goods to smuggle back into the ghetto.

During 1942 and 1943, the Nazis “liquidated” the ghettos by deporting and murdering their inhabitants. Those in Warsaw were sent mostly to Treblinka. Round ups became a daily occurrence in the ghettos.

The tragic history of the Warsaw Jewish community can be heard in the word, Umschlagplatz (transfer point). During the deportations that began in July 1942; an average of 7,000 Jews per day were forcibly marched to the Umschlagplatz, a way station to the Treblinka extermination camp. German police, the SS and their Latvian and Ukrainian helpers would search the streets of Warsaw, rounding up Jews to send to this way station. Jews of Warsaw knew that it was imperative to their survival to avoid this holding place of death. (See the film The Pianist)

Today there is a small memorial to the Umschlagplatz. Your children went there and saw what basically looks like a box car structure made of marble, with the first names of ghetto residents inscribed on it. In the middle of this structure is a small opening with a tree in eye view. Students are asked to reflect on this memorial. Some will find their own names inscribed on the wall; others will find their Hebrew Names. The horrible circumstances of the ghetto, coupled with the appalling conditions on the trains, caused many of those who began the journey of death to die here at this point and even before they reached their final destination. And of course, those who survived the trains or the conditions of the ghetto or the brutality of the Nazi guards were ultimately murdered in the gas chambers of Treblinka.

One cannot leave the city of Warsaw without remembering the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising. In the summer of 1942 the Nazis removed 300,000 Jews from the Warsaw Ghetto. Most went to Treblinka. Approximately 700 to 750 Jewish men and women armed themselves as best they could. They were determined to resist the roundups and the Nazis who were intent on destroying the nearly 60,000 Jews who remained in the ghetto in the early spring of 1943. On April 19, the eve of Passover, the Germans entered the ghetto to liquidate it for good. They met up with the first “urban uprising” in German-occupied Europe. It lasted from April 19 to May 16, 1943. Although the poorly armed Jewish fighters were outnumbered 3 to 1 by Nazis who had tanks and cannons, it was not until May 8 that the Germans destroyed the Jewish Fighting Organization’s headquarters bunker at 18 Mila Street, where Mordecai Anielewicz, the organization’s commander, died.

Although on May 16 General Stroop declared victory over the Warsaw Ghetto, and although only 16 Germans were killed and 85 were wounded, the Warsaw Ghetto uprising remains highly important as another example of heroic Jewish resistance against ENORMOUS ODDS. Furthermore it prompted Poles to revolt and others in other places to do the same.

The Rapoport Memorial of the Warsaw Ghetto can be seen both in Warsaw and at Yad Vashem in Jerusalem. It stands as tall as the rubble of the Warsaw Ghetto did in the year 1948 -- piled 16 feet high covering hundreds of acres. When your children come home, ask them what they remember about this memorial and what was different about the memorial as seen in Poland versus the one at Yad Vashem in Israel. Both are a memorial to the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising

Wednesday July 2, 2008: Majdanek

Dear Family and Friends:

Today your children visited the Old City of Lublin, home to a very famous Yeshiva. They witnessed a bustling town, both then and now, that was once home to a very large Jewish community. After visiting the Great Yeshiva of Lublin and learning about the religious life of the many Jewish communities of Poland, your children gained an understanding of the nature of so many Jewish communities in Poland prior to the Holocaust.

Most Polish Jews were very religious, spoke Yiddish, and had established their own communities and agencies within the larger cities or even smaller towns of Poland. In contrast the Jews of Western Europe, including Germany, were far more secular and assimilated. They spoke the language of the country where they resided and they experienced high rates of intermarriage. Their nationality (German, French, Dutch, etc.) often preceded their religion in rank of importance; not so, for the Jews of Poland.

Following their visit to Lublin your children went to what I believe has to be one of the darkest places on earth. At Treblinka they saw a memorial to the camp. In Treblinka grass now grows and there are beautiful forests. Treblinka was hidden from the cities and placed deep in the countryside and the forest.

Majdanek is a concentration camp and an extermination camp that is located on the Southern outskirts of the city of Lublin. It is in full view! Originally established in 1941 for prisoners of war, it was soon turned into a camp for Jews with a maximum capacity of 35,000 inmates. All transports to the Camp consisted mainly of Jews and to a lesser extent, Poles. The first groups of Jews arrived from Slovakia followed by Bohemia and Moravia and then Poland. Early in 1943 Dutch and Greek Jews also arrived. Polish Jews mostly came from Warsaw and Bialystock and Lublin.

Altogether about 800,000 were sent to Majdanek in 1942-43 of whom about 60 percent were women and children, the sick and the elderly, and were either shot or gassed upon arrival. By November 1943 an addition 37,000 victims had either succumbed to the unbearable living conditions or to sadistic treatment by Camp guards. Until the spring of 1942 prisoners were usually shot in a nearby forest, but afterwards two of the camps four Zyklon B gas chambers were used and the bodies were then cremated.

Toward the end of 1943 a strong partisan movement developed in the Lublin district. At the same time the Jewish prisoners of the death camp of Sobibor revolted. In retaliation the Germans carried out a massacre euphemistically named the Harvest Festival of 42,000 Jews, some of whom had been brought from the nearby work camps. This “action” included the machine gunning of 18,000 Jews in a single day (November 3, 1943) I front of the ditches that the victims were made to dig to serve as their own graves.

When the camp was liberated by the advancing Soviet armies (July, 1944) only a few hundred prisoners were still alive.

In 1947 the Polish authorities established a museum and research institute at Majdanek. With the exception of many of the barracks, which were dismantled at the approach of the army, the rest of the camp remains today much as it was on the last day of operation.

For more information on Majdanek visit: http://www.cympm.com/majdanekcitysuburbs.html


My Personal Reflections:

When one sees Majdanek there are so many unthinkable moments. One is struck by the devastating notion that man can be so incredibly evil and most cannot but help wonder about the following among many other things:

First, the Commandant’s house, located next to the gas chambers. Here, the commandant and his family, including his many, many children, lived within a few hundred feet of the gas chambers. The children played in the yard as prisoners arrived and as victims, women and children, stood in the lines waiting to enter the gas chambers.

Next, the camp is extremely close to the city of Lublin—a large bustling city. Even today, apartment buildings have been built where one’s central view from the apartment balcony is of the camp. When I was at Majdanek I could hear radios playing from these apartments as I walked through the barracks. I was amazed that any one would build apartments so close to the camp even if they were built after the Shoah. Because of the camp’s proximity to the city, one also realizes that those who were sent to Majdanek were first brought by trains that stopped at the train station in the heart of the City of Lublin. Unlike Treblinka or Auschwitz, the trains did not pull directly into the camps, where they were out of view. It was obvious that the residents of Lublin had to have been eyewitnesses to what was going on; there was no way to deny this fact. They had to see the thousands of people arriving daily with suitcases in hand walking through the city and into the camp. They had to smell the burning flesh.

Finally the reality of the gas chambers in Majdanek and the crematoriums, left totally in tact as they were then, are very hard to comprehend—factories of death to kill human beings in the 20th century. As you approach the gas chambers, written above the doorway are the words, “Bath and Disinfection.” After being in ghettos, traveling on cramped trains for hours and even days, and being subjected to many other horrific circumstances, those who arrived here were lead to believe that they were going to a work camp and would have the opportunity to shower and clean up. To make sure everyone remained calm, they were told to enter the room marked Bath and Disinfection, and it was here that they encountered hooks for their clothing, a place to put their shoes, and actual showerheads. There they were asked to undress and remove their clothes, men, women and children together, while Nazi guards looked on intentionally humiliating all. Once undressed, water really did come out of these shower heads. However, after showering, they then were asked to move into the next room where they were told they would be deloused.

When you enter this room and stand there with others, you feel nervous, anxious, and you can see with your own eyes the cement walls that held thousands and thousands of people-- covered with scratch marks of those who tried to survive the gas.

Jewish prisoners of the camp were forced to remove the bodies from the chambers and take them to the crematoriums on the opposite end of the camp.

Next to these many ovens in Majdanek one cannot help but notice a porcelain bath tub. It was here that the commandant of the camp would bathe. The heat from the ovens provided him with a hot bath and a warm sauna. This was the mentality of the incredibly sadistic Guards of these Camps.

After touring the entire camp, and after seeing barracks filled with shoes--shoes, shoes and more shoes, one is struck by the magnitude of loss. One also wonders about the individual--who were the persons who walked in the high heeled shoes, the baby shoes, the heavy boots, the torn-up flats?

At the end of the camp is a stadium-size mound of human ash and bones, piled high and wide. It is covered by a tremendous dome. It was established as a memorial to those murdered at the Camp. It is virtually unimaginable to comprehend how many were killed when just one handful of ash is the equivalent of one human body.

Visiting Majdanek is grueling. It is a horrible place and one that reflects the magnitude of the Holocaust. Tonight your students will have an opportunity to talk about what they witnessed and to share their feelings with their guides, their educators, and with each other.

As soon as I hear from your children with quotes about their experiences today, I will forward them to you.

All the best,
Barb

Reflections on Warsaw, Tykocin and Treblinka

Sophie Kanter:
“Today was othe second day of our trip. First we went to the deportation place or the umhschalplatz in Warsaw. This is where the Jews of the Warsaw Ghetto waited for the trains that took them to Treblinka. We heard stories of people being deported. We held a ceremony there and reflected on the names of those who went to their deaths. After this we went to Tykocin; my group was responsible for the ceremony in the Forest. It was very, very sad and we reflected on those who were murdered in this forest. It was very sad and we lit candles. This was very interesting for me because this was what our group had researched before we went on the trip. We also sang Hatikvah as this was the song the Jews sung as they marched through the Forest to their deaths. Following this we went to Treblinka. It is a huge memorial filled with thousands of stones representing little villages, towns, and major cities in Europe where Jews once lived. We saw the monument that represents the town where Sarah Warren’s family was from. In the middle of this rather peaceful and somewhat beautiful area is a huge monument that represents where the gas chambers once stood. We all gathered there and had a lot of discussions about what was lost and our feelings about the trip. This was probably the saddest part of the day. It was a really interesting day but it was very sad.”

Lauren Marmer:
“Today we went to the three mass graves in the Forest which was pretty intense. It was really beautiful in the forest but it was so sad to see where mass murders occurred in this beautiful forest. We also were on the bus forever today! We went to Treblinka and saw the huge monument representing the gas chambers and we saw the stone representing Sarah’s family’s community. It was so sad hearing the stories and talking about it. It was really emotional for me; I almost walked away. I cried and was very emotional. I was surprised I would react this way. I think the Polish people can be somewhat rude but I think the country is beautiful. Believe it or not I am having fun, too!”

Jeff Spitz:
I am calling on our first full day of Poland. I have enjoyed our trip so far even though we have had some long bus rides and long waits. Today we saw Treblinka, the concentration camp, and it was pretty intense and there were just monuments; no remains of the gas chambers. But even with that it was pretty cool to see. Something I learned from this trip is that before, when I thought about concentration camps, I would think dry land, cloudy skies and no trees. But, when I got to Treblinka it was really beautiful, birds chirping, forests and it was so weird that all these people could be killed in such a beautiful place. That shocked me because I always thought concentration camps were barren places.”

Tuesday July 1, 2008: Tykocin and Treblinka

Today included an amazing visit to a small shtetl (village) known as Tykocin. This little village, where Jews lived for hundreds of years, reminds one of Fiddler on the Roof. In this small little town, there are wooden houses, livestock, a river, a Russian Orthodox Church, a synagogue that has been beautifully renovated, and a town square. Jews lived here with their Christian neighbors for hundreds of years. The Jews lived on one side of the market square and the Christians lived on the other side. They did business together in the square; yet, kept a distance from one another and practiced their religions separately.

As one walks through this town, you cannot help but notice the places where mezuzahs once hung on the doorframes of the Jewish homes. You sometimes even notice Stars of David in the carvings of the exteriors of the homes. Running alongside the town is the river, a beautiful river that runs parallel with the main street. While the Church is at one end of the town, surrounded by the Christian homes, the synagogues is in another part of the town surrounded by the Jewish homes. At the very end of the Jewish section is the Old Jewish Cemetery--on the extreme opposite end of the Church.

When you walk through this town after visiting the beautiful synagogue, you can't help but notice that there are no people to be seen anywhere. They hide! They hide with shame and with guilt. Those who live here today, and especially the elderly, lived here during the Shoah. Those who are young are the descendants and have inherited the guilt or perhaps sin of their fathers. This little village, an Anitevka if you will, remains relatively unchanged with just one exception--there are no Jews.

Your children visited the synagogue today. They sang and celebrated the Jewish people's survival. They saw with their own eyes what once was a magnificent synagogue, including the little room where the custodian of the synagogue lived. They walked through the main road of Tykocin. They saw chickens, perhaps pigs, and even ducks in the yards. And most likely they saw people hiding, peaking behind their curtains as they walked through the town.

At the end of the town, there is what was once a Jewish cemetery. No more. The gravestones are gone. Where are they? The townspeople threw them in the river. There are very little traces that Jews ever lived in Tykocin. And perhaps without the Lauder Foundation and their renovation of the beautiful remaining synagogue and perhaps without other Jewish groups who visit here, all would have been forgotten. For what happened in Tykocin happened in many little towns during the Nazi Occupation.

When the Nazis came to Tykocin, they rounded up all 1400 Jews--children, the elderly, men, women, grandmothers, aunts, uncles, and babies. Their neighbors watched. Their neighbors helped. The Nazis marched the Jews to a forest about 5 miles from Tykocin. There they made them take off their clothes and in three mass graves, they machine-gunned all the Jewish residents of Tykocin. When the Nazis left the mass graves, some, a handful of people, who feigned their deaths and fell into the pits, survived and escaped from the graves. Although these survivors lost everyone they ever knew, they managed to escape into the Forests and survive with the partisans, living to tell the story of Tykocin.

When the war ended these same people returned to this little town. When they went to their homes, they saw that their Christian neighbors whom they had lived side by side with for generations, had moved into their homes, taking their belongings, and were unwilling to return them or to welcome them back.

. . .and the Jewish cemetery? What became of it? Well, on a clear day, when you stand in front of the church on a bridge overlooking the river, you can see Hebrew letters illuminated by the sun's rays. Once the Jews of Tykocin had been eliminated, so were any traces that Jews ever lived or died here. The gravestones remain at the basin of the river.

Sarah and Brian just called. They said this is an amazing group of kids. Very engaged and well behaved. They will be leaving voice messages this evening. Tomorrow I will report on their visits with direct quotes. At that time I will also update you on their visit to the memorial of Treblinka Death Camp.

Talk to you then!
Have a nice evening.
Barb

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

My Experience at the Nozyk Shul

by Barb Miller

During my visit to the Nozyk Shul (when I chaperoned March of the Living with Sarah Warren as a student), I sat next to a young Polish woman in her early 20’s on a Shabbat morning. I asked her what brought her to the synagogue as I did not think she was Jewish. She told me a story typical of many who come to this shul: She said she had recently learned that her grandmother was Jewish. Her grandmother, who had survived the Holocaust and remained in Poland, then married a Polish man. However, her grandmother hid her Judaism to avoid any further anti-Semitic problems in post-holocaust Poland. Although the man she married was Catholic, with the rise of communism, no religion was practiced. During this time period they gave birth to the young woman’s mother. Her mother also married a Catholic man. Her mother and father, with the fall of Communism, raised her to be Catholic. However, when her grandmother was on her death bed, her grandmother confessed to the Catholic priest that she was a Jew. Halachically this meant that not only was her daughter a Jew but her granddaughter was too. Although the mother was not interested in pursuing her Jewish roots, this young girl seated next to me was. Rabbi Shudrich of the Nozyk Synagogue has outreached to many of these young people with similar stories. As a matter of fact, in Warsaw there not only is a functioning synagogue, but there is a thriving Jewish Day School known as the Lauder Jewish Day School.

A Story about the Lauder Jewish Day School:
“The woman was a survivor of ghettos, concentration camps, and death marches, but at the end of the war, she remained in Poland. Despite the hardships of Communism and despite the periodic anti-Semitic slurs, she was one of several thousand who stayed on. She never thought her sons and daughters would have a Jewish life, and indeed, few options were open to them as they grew up, married and had children of their own. But on a September morning in 1994 this elderly Holocaust survivor collected her grandchildren and took them across Warsaw to a modern building in the suburbs. Stepping inside, she placed them before the administrator and smiled. “I can hardly believe I am here,” she said. “A Jewish school in Poland; so I want to enroll these two—I want them to have the chance I could not give my children.”

The establishment of the Lauder Morasha School in Warsaw, the first Jewish school in Poland in more than a quarter of a century, marked a watershed in an extraordinary reawakening of Jewish life on Polish soil. Just a decade ago, a viable Jewish future seemed impossible to contemplate. With the loss of three million Polish Jews who were killed in the Holocaust, many observers believed that Poland’s thousand year Jewish History had come to an end.”

Thousands of young and not so young Poles are reclaiming their Jewish identity through a myriad of programs which the Ron Lauder (Estee Lauder) Foundation supports as does Rabbi Michael Shudrich of the Nozyk Shul. Many synagogues and Jewish sites in Poland that have been restored are because of the Lauder Foundation.

Reflections on Warsaw

Calling from the hotel in Warsaw on Monday night are the following students:

Sarah Schneider: “We had a nice day today. We had a long wait in the Newark airport at first so we were pretty tired but when we got to Warsaw it was pretty neat. We went first to a cemetery and learned about the people who were buried there and what they did for a living. We also saw a mass grave and some of us lit candles to memorialize those who died and were buried there.

“We also went to a church where there is a statue of Pope John Paul II and we learned about what he did during his years in Poland and helping Jews suffering through the Holocaust. We also saw the only remaining synagogue in Warsaw, the Nozyk Synagogue, and then we saw one of the only remaining buildings still standing of the Warsaw Ghetto.”

Yuliya Azirbayeva: “After the long tiring plane ride and waiting at the airport everything was really interesting in Poland. All the places we saw like the Cemetery and the wall of the ghetto were really interesting. I would not say it was fun but it was really deep and intense. At the end of the day we had dinner together and now we are having some fun in the hotel.”

Daniel Makutonin: “What really struck me was the cemetery we went to and the unmarked graves of 80,000 people and so many children. I am really looking forward to the rest of the week and the end of the trip because I LOVE ISRAEL!”

Joanna Kaisar:
“Today was great! We visited the biggest Jewish cemetery in Eastern Europe. It was really interesting to see the tombstones and learn about the people by interpreting the symbols and reading about who they were. We saw the Wall of the Jewish Ghetto and we talked about how small the ghetto was and how many people had been contained in such a small area. It was really cool to see the only synagogue still remaining in Warsaw. Poland is actually beautiful and I really like it.”

For more information about the Nozyk Synagogue Visit: http://www.scrapbookpages.com/poland/WarsawGhetto/WarsawGhetto06.html

For more information about the Warsaw Ghetto, Visit: http://www1.yadvashem.org/exhibitions/warsaw_ghetto/home_warsaw.html

Have a Great Day!

Barb

Monday, June 30: Warsaw

Dear Family and Friends,

Today your children are in Warsaw. During their stay they will visit the Warsaw Jewish Cemetery, the House of Janus Korzak, The Zlota Wall, Mila 18 and the Rappaport Memorial. They also will see the Umschlagplatz—the place where the ghetto residents waited for the trains that took them to Treblinka.

Later they will have dinner in Warsaw and drive to Lublin where they will spend the night. As I hear from the students I will send you their personal updates and quotes. In the mean time I will provide you with some information about specific sights on their journey.

Since they began their trip with a visit to the Jewish Cemetery in Warsaw, I will begin with this site. Although it is a huge cemetery, this incredible place reveals so much about the Jewish Community of Warsaw and of Poland in general. Established in 1806, it is located on Okopowa Street. It is estimated that there are 300,000 people buried in this cemetery, perhaps even more. However, there are 100,000 tombs that have been preserved. The Warsaw Cemetery is one of the few remaining cemeteries in Poland where new burial still takes place.

There is a mass grave of Jews who perished between 1940 and 1943 during the war due mainly to starvation. It is to the left of the wall surrounding the original cemetery and during the war it was part of the Ghetto. As one enters the gate of the cemetery you see on the left an administration building which before the war housed hearses. On the site of a grassy path to the right stood until 1939 buildings of pre-burial houses with rooms for the Tahara (cleaning of the body) and a prayer house. To the right of that is a wall that was built in 1907. Another brick wall into which elements of tombstones destroyed during the war also has been built and was put up by the Poles after World War II.

Students will walk to several gravestones of prominent Jews and by visiting each one of them they will learn the symbols of the gravestones and begin to understand just what was lost when close to 3 million Polish Jews were murdered by the Nazis. Great rabbis, doctors, authors, artists, playwrights, bankers, etc., are buried in this unbelievably immense cemetery. The dates go back more than 200 years.

It is the right place to start a journey to Poland in order to understand how Jewish individuals and communities lived and even thrived for several centuries in Poland. One of those individuals well known among Poles and Jews and a hero in his own right is Janus Korzak. Today the students will visit his orphanage.

Dr. Janus Korzak (or Korczak) was an incredible hero. There is a memorial to him at the Warsaw Cemetery and at Yad Vashem. Both show him with his arms reaching around children. He was well known throughout Poland and he was if you will the Dr. Spock of his day. However, he rejected many offers to be saved from extermination in the Nazi death camps. He refused to desert the children to whom he devoted his entire life, so that even as they approached death they would be able to maintain their faith in human goodness. He easily could have saved himself. He was repeatedly urged to do so by his many Polish admirers and friends as he was a prominent figure in Polish cutural life by the time he had died. He was offered false identity paper and they arranged for his escape from the Warsaw Ghetto. Even the children whom he had rescued from neglect in the past begged him to save himself. But as the head of the Jewish orphanage in Warsaw for 30 years, Korzak was determined not to abandon the children who trusted him.

On August 6, 1942 the Nazis ordered the 200 children who remained in the Jewish orphanage of the Warsaw Ghetto to a train station only to be packed into railroad cars. Korczak, like most other adults of the Ghetto, knew at this time that they were to be taken to their deaths in the gas chambers of Treblinka.

To deceive the children of their fate, Korczak told them that they were all going on an outing or a picnic in the countryside. On this day he had the oldest child lead them through the streets, carrying high the flag of hope, a gold four leaf clover on a field of green--the emblem of the orphanage. Even in the most terrible of situations Korczak had arranged things so that a child rather than an adult would be the leader of the other children. He walked immediately behind this leader, holding the hands of the two smallest children. Behind them marched all the other children, 4 x 4, in excellent order. Many saw the children walk to the trains accompanied by the many they loved as much as one can love a father.

Many years preceding this Korcak had been known all over Poland as "The Old Doctor." He used this name when delivering his state radio talks on children and their education. He was one of the first to treat children as little people. He became a familiar name even to those who had not read his books. He even had received Poland's highest literary prize. He wrote plays and numerous articles on children. He not only fully understood the child's point of view, but deeply respected and appreciated it. What he taught best was the title of one of his most famous books "How One Ought to Love a Child."

He was born Henryk Goldszmit, and came from two generations of educated Jews who had broken away from the Jewish tradition to assimilate into the Polish culture. His grandfather also was a successful doctor and his father a successful lawyer. He spent his early life in comfortable circumstances. His family were Jewish but in terms of religious Polish Jewish life they were non-practicing Jews who spoke only Polish, not Yiddish. So although he was well cared for as a child he knew practically from birth what it meant to be an outsider in a certain way. He changed his name from Goldschmit to Korczak when he was 18 years old. His father at this time had died and the family had economic hardships. As a university student he began to support himself, his mother and his sister by writing. He therefore thought by adopting a Polish sounding name this would prevent him from being disqualified in a literary competition. Although he did not win the competition he kept this new penname.

As a medical student specializing in pediatrics, Korzcak worked in the slums of Warsaw, hoping that by combining medical treatment for children's physical ills with spiritual assistance; he would be able to effect changes in their living conditions. He was angry at how children were forced to live and spend their lives. In 1912 he decided to give up his medical practice and devote his life to helping suffering children. In his early thirties he then became the director of the Jewish orphanage in Warsaw. From then until his death, he lived and worked at the orphanage, the only interruption was his service as a physician in the Russian army during World War I.
Many of Korcak's ideas are now commonplace but they were radically new at the beginning of the century. He stressed the importance of respecting children and their ideas even when we cannot agree with them. He insisted that it is wrong to base expectations of children on what we want them to be in the future. He felt it more important to be concerned with what the child is now--not what we wish for him or her.

His most widely read book is "King Matt the First," a story of a boy who on the death of his father becomes king and immediately sets out to change his kingdom for the benefit of children and adults alike. King Matt is really none other than Korczak himself, recreated as a child, who did battle against all the injustices of the world, most of all against those that inflicted the kids.
From the time of the German invasion of Poland in 1939 Korczak knew the end was coming. On the last pages of his diary in 1942, Korczak wrote, "I am angry with nobody, I don't wish anyone evil."

The memorial at Treblinka to the 840,000 Jews who were murdered there consists of large rocks, marking the areas (cities or countries or towns) in which they died. The rocks bear no inscriptions other than the name of the city or country from which the victims came. One rock however is inscribed with a man's name; it reads: "Janus Korczak (Henry Goldszmit) and the Children"

"When everyone acts inhuman, what should a man do?" asked the Rabbis. The answer was: “He should act more human."

It is almost 3 p.m. and I have to leave the office today for a meeting. I will report tomorrow on what your children say about their journey thus far. As you know they will be calling me and leaving voice messages on my machine. As I receive my messages I will forward their reports to you.

Have a nice evening.

Barb

Monday, June 30, 2008

The Group Has Landed in Warsaw




Dear Parents, Friends and Family,

The Cincinnati Jewish Experience in Israel and Poland group landed in Warsaw at approximately 1:30 p.m. Warsaw time (early this morning). As you probably know their flight was delayed and they left last night from Newark around 11 p.m.

Sarah Warren called to say that all is GREAT! They were met by the guide, Razi Mamet, the Director of the Partnership and their Israeli Chaperones. They are currently touring the Warsaw Cemetery and will then stop for lunch!

I am sure they will sleep well tonight! I am waiting to hear for their daily report and as soon as I do I will send another email.

It was great seeing all of you at the airport yesterday. If you can email me some of the photos that were taken, we will post them on our website.

All the best,
Barb

Friday, June 27, 2008

Introduction

Dear travelers on the Jewish Experience in Israel & Poland:

We are about to embark on one of those “life altering trips,” to aptly place a cliché. We will travel together on a journey through modern Jewish history. Poland to Israel. Destruction to rebirth. Darkness to light.

Together, we will experience two of the most significant events in Jewish history. You will be transported back in time to one of the darkest chapters in human existence, to one of the most terrifying times in Jewish history—the destruction of European Jewry in The Shoah, the Holocaust. Then, before you can take a deep breath, you will travel to Israel, our Jewish homeland, to celebrate the vibrancy of the modern State of Israel. By experiencing the key places where these events took place, you will better understand the world that was destroyed and the existence of our modern Jewish homeland.

Our goal is for you to learn the lessons of the Holocaust and to lead the Jewish people into a future vowing Never Again.

The mission is to create memories, leading to a revitalized commitment to Judaism, Israel and the Jewish people. You will acquire the skills to educate your peers about the Holocaust and to fight those who would deny its history, while forging a dynamic link with Israel.

Our trip is unique. Through the Partnership 2000 program, you will develop person-to-person connections with Jews from Cincinnati’s partnership city, Netanya, Israel. In addition to traveling with a diverse group of peers from Cincinnati, you will discover the similarities and differences in the respective experiences of growing up in the United States and in Israel. Together, you will better understand what it means to be Jewish and return home with a new sense of yourself, your people and your history.

Poland and Israel; one, the richness and anguish of our past; the other, the hope of our future. Through our travels, you will better understand how important both aspects are to your identity as a Jewish teenager living in the 21st century.

It will be a month of unforgettable experiences. Grasp the future. Embrace the past. Together we will share moments of sadness and joy and create long-lasting bonds.

Sincerely,
Your chaperones,



Brian Meeron & Sarah Warren

Jewish Experience in Israel & Poland
June 29, 2008 – July 27, 2008